Tuesday, June 24th (I think): Written in haste
The past two days, I have written in the morning, taken breakfast here at the hotel, which is included in the rate, and then spent the late mornings and the afternoons shambling about Rome, walking for four or five hours just to get accustomed to the city. In that time, I have visited Vatican City and St. Peter’s (I’m going to Saint Peter’s early tomorrow to actually visit the church), the Pantheon, several churches, the Capitol, the Roman Forum (again I need to return to make the tour), and a dozen other points of interest, all the while swept up by the street life and the surprises each turn of the road or alleyway brings.
The past two days, I have written in the morning, taken breakfast here at the hotel, which is included in the rate, and then spent the late mornings and the afternoons shambling about Rome, walking for four or five hours just to get accustomed to the city. In that time, I have visited Vatican City and St. Peter’s (I’m going to Saint Peter’s early tomorrow to actually visit the church), the Pantheon, several churches, the Capitol, the Roman Forum (again I need to return to make the tour), and a dozen other points of interest, all the while swept up by the street life and the surprises each turn of the road or alleyway brings.
Example: This morning at 10:30 I set out for the Forum. It’s about half an hour walk or so from the hotel, but I kept bumbling into other things to see. I visited the Pantheon, an ancient shrine to the gods, but now a Catholic church. It also serves as an ancient clock—the sunlight through the open dome keeps time. Following the advice of a friend, Sid Cundiff, I waited to look at the ceiling until I was right under the opening. Magnificent is all I can say, and I am still marveling at how the ancients constructed such a structure. I did smile at the signs around the Pantheon reminding visitors to speak softly and to dress modestly because this is a church and a sacred place. No one enforced those rules, though yesterday, when I was in a Catholic church with French connections, the man at the information desk kept “Shhhhhusssshhhing” everyone very loudly every ten minutes or so.
From there, the Forum was my next stop. But then came the surprises. First was the Church of St. Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits. I just drifted into the place and was stunned by the domes, the paintings, the sculpture. Only a few visitors were inside, and numerous chapels offered places for quiet prayer and reflection. Next, I happened across Santa Maria in Arcoili, which was also not on my agenda. This place of worship was amazing for several reasons: the enormous sculpted golden ceilings; the Italian pilgrims who sang a hymn praising Mary; the painted faux dome at the top of the church.
But what most entranced me was the chapel dedicated to San Bernardino di Siena. Around 1486, artist Pinturicchio (I confess I’ve never heard of him) painted the frescos that may still be seen today. These provide an excellent example of Renaissance fresco, and I spent a few minutes studying the faces of the figures, marveling at how closely those faces resemble our own.
Outside the church, I could view the Roman Forum, but then I received another surprise. I remembered that my son, Jon Pat, had told me not miss the Mamertine Prison. And here it was. I paid my three euros and entered into the dungeon that had once held Roman prisoners like Jugurtha and Vecingetorix, and possibly Saints Peter and Paul.
Descending into that prison was an experience that will remain with me. This site was lightly visited, yet it has great meaning for Christians. Here Peter and Paul were incarcerated, converted their jailors to Christianity, and were led to their execution. As you go down some steep stairs, you come to the chapel dedicated to these two saints—a very modest room with an altar and an ancient fresco. Here you see the hole in the floor to the room below. You then descend another set of stairs and follow a short iron walkway across the ground of the prison itself. The dark room, the dank walls, the heavy rocks: all give anyone with an imagination how horrific life in this dungeon could be.
Then back to the Hotel Due Torre for a brief respite before going out later this evening. I have yet to eat at a restaurant in Rome, preferring to buy food and eat on my terrace, but tonight I will hit up a restaurant.
And so I did. I dined at an Ossteria/Pizzera (probably misspelled) about five blocks from the hotel, where the salad was exactly what I needed and the service was indifferent. Then another long walk and home to the hotel.
From there, the Forum was my next stop. But then came the surprises. First was the Church of St. Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits. I just drifted into the place and was stunned by the domes, the paintings, the sculpture. Only a few visitors were inside, and numerous chapels offered places for quiet prayer and reflection. Next, I happened across Santa Maria in Arcoili, which was also not on my agenda. This place of worship was amazing for several reasons: the enormous sculpted golden ceilings; the Italian pilgrims who sang a hymn praising Mary; the painted faux dome at the top of the church.
But what most entranced me was the chapel dedicated to San Bernardino di Siena. Around 1486, artist Pinturicchio (I confess I’ve never heard of him) painted the frescos that may still be seen today. These provide an excellent example of Renaissance fresco, and I spent a few minutes studying the faces of the figures, marveling at how closely those faces resemble our own.
Outside the church, I could view the Roman Forum, but then I received another surprise. I remembered that my son, Jon Pat, had told me not miss the Mamertine Prison. And here it was. I paid my three euros and entered into the dungeon that had once held Roman prisoners like Jugurtha and Vecingetorix, and possibly Saints Peter and Paul.
Descending into that prison was an experience that will remain with me. This site was lightly visited, yet it has great meaning for Christians. Here Peter and Paul were incarcerated, converted their jailors to Christianity, and were led to their execution. As you go down some steep stairs, you come to the chapel dedicated to these two saints—a very modest room with an altar and an ancient fresco. Here you see the hole in the floor to the room below. You then descend another set of stairs and follow a short iron walkway across the ground of the prison itself. The dark room, the dank walls, the heavy rocks: all give anyone with an imagination how horrific life in this dungeon could be.
Then back to the Hotel Due Torre for a brief respite before going out later this evening. I have yet to eat at a restaurant in Rome, preferring to buy food and eat on my terrace, but tonight I will hit up a restaurant.
And so I did. I dined at an Ossteria/Pizzera (probably misspelled) about five blocks from the hotel, where the salad was exactly what I needed and the service was indifferent. Then another long walk and home to the hotel.